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Build - Full wood UG Kipuna style board

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Re: Build - Full wood UG Kipuna style board

Postby tungsten » Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:56 am

Hi Karst71,

the second method has virtually no effect on flex. Given a full wood core and epoxy & fibre glass on top, the main important factor regarding flex is the thickness of the board. If you build an uneven shape like the redecessed deck, you have to take into account the thickness of the rim and the thickness of the center. the grain direction is rather important when it comes to breaking strength. Reason: the main load goes to the surface (fibre glass), not the core. How much glass you have to put on, depends on board thickness (where it flexes) and core density (where you stand on it).

Sure it depends on the wood as well, paulownia has different flex from balsa or bamboo, but this, in the end, comes down to density: You will not want to build a full body bamboo board, too heavy. Balsa is 100-170kg/m3, paulownia 200-250kg/m3, bamboo 350-400kg/m3.

So in a big picture, shape and thickness are important. Density is important if you want to go thicker and / or lighter. If you're able to distinguish equal boards, one made of paulownia and one of hard balsa, you are such a good and experienced rider, you could as well go out on a McDonalds tray and make it shine.

A fad:

fad.jpg
fad.jpg (44.46 KiB) Viewed 143857 times
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Re: Build - Full wood UG Kipuna style board

Postby Karst71 » Fri Dec 07, 2012 5:15 am

Hi tungsten,

I got all my materials: I drove to Germany and bought some Paulownia :D

I still have some question though:

1. Concave
- In the AKU shaper file the slices show a constant (circular?) curve towards the rails. From the picture on p1 of this thread in which you show the concave, I get the impression that the convace flattens out towards horizontal near the edge. Is that correct?
- Does the concave become less deep towards the nose and tail?

2. Rails bottom side
- The AKUshaper file shows very sharp rails. I can imagine it is very hard to glass around that acute angle. Did you rond them slightly for glassing, or did you keep them completely sharp? If so, how did you glass around it?

3. Rails top side:
- Did you shape the topside completely flat and glued on the rails all around the board? Or did you thin out the nose, leaving the wood for the rail?

4. glass
- You used 4oz glass. In the metric system is that 140 g/m2? I assumed 4 oz = 4 oz/yrd2.

5. Dimensions:
- I'm quite big: 1.87m, 98 kg. I'm thinking to build a 6' board. Do you think that will be OK? If so, How wide should I go?

6. Fins:
- Having only build a finless skim before, Do you have a guideline dealing with fin placement? I'm not sure how to position the fins.

Thanks alot for your incredible postings and help!

Karst71
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Re: Build - Full wood UG Kipuna style board

Postby tungsten » Sun Dec 09, 2012 2:19 pm

Hi Karst71,

Good to hear you got that wood sorted out. You won't get it cheaper than there.

1. Concave
The concave is a curve, both in AKU shaper and real life. It looks like flat-ish on the photo, but this is due to camera focal length. Concave is deeper in the middle, less in tip and tail. But the important thing is shaping the bottom according to this rule. http://www.losethestraps.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=0&t=942


2. Rails bottom side
Right, you can't glass a sharp rail, won't work. I won't leave them sharp-sharp either, because I don't want to hurt myself. Sharp-ish does it. The steps how I did it are here

Laminate sharp rail.jpg
Laminate sharp rail.jpg (79.16 KiB) Viewed 143739 times



3. Rails top side:
I had a flat deck and glued on wood for the top rail, then I shaped that top rail. The tip part was thick enough though, I didn't have to add on. Make your flat deck, measure how much you have and how much is missing. Shaping is a bit by bit process you see. It will be obvious when you are at it. You work a bit, check the result, take away some more material, check again...


4. glass
I also prefer metric system, but everybody calls it 4OZ glass. It is the standard Hexcel glass Nº 1522, 4OZ = 125g / m2.
http://www.viral-surf.com/shaper/en/60-hexcel-fiberglass-cloth-for-surfboard-lamination


5. Dimensions:
At 1.87m, 98 kg it doesn't make much difference 5.8 or 6.0. I would go 6.5 at your weight. Check the Kipuna style board AKU shaper file in 6.5x18.7 (195x47,5cm) I sent you.


6. Fins:
If you know nothing about fin placement, the easiest is to copy an existing board. I.e. go to the underground website, look for a pic of the kipuna, and use these fin positions.

Information about thruster fin placement for a surf board is here http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1012971 .

fin placement.png
fin placement.png (103.68 KiB) Viewed 143739 times


For a kite surf board, you want less toe in:
-A paddle surf board, the side fins point at the board tip (= the center line of the board).
-Kite surf board, they point off the center, mine point 12cm off the middle. like this:

fin pos.png
fin pos.png (256.16 KiB) Viewed 143739 times


cheers, tungsten
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Re: Build - Full wood UG Kipuna style board

Postby Karst71 » Fri Apr 12, 2013 6:07 pm

ReHi,

Thanks a million for your clear explanations of this nice project. I have picked up my own build again, and got down to shaping the bottom and rails. Added are some pics of my progress so far. Instead of a ply stringer, I used a leftover piece of western red ceder I got from a local builder. I think I bent it a little when glueing it in, so I'm not sure about the final rocker line.

The top-rails at the nose and tail I also made of some left over ceder. I think it will look nice.

I'm slightly worried the center will end up too thin, as seem to keep removing wood in order to make that nice shape :roll: . I'll have to be careful.

As 4OZ glass (125 g/m2) seems to be rather rare in the NL, I think I'll go 2x 160g/m2 for the top and bottom.

Voorbereiden stringer inlijmen-001.JPG
step 1. Glueing stringer and halves together
Voorbereiden stringer inlijmen-001.JPG (169.06 KiB) Viewed 142775 times


Bodemplaat met stringer erin.JPG
botoom plate and stringer clamped down
Bodemplaat met stringer erin.JPG (171.51 KiB) Viewed 142775 times


Bovenkant shapen voor.jpg
Shaping top
Bovenkant shapen voor.jpg (153.51 KiB) Viewed 142775 times


raillijmen achter.jpg
glueing on the rail
raillijmen achter.jpg (101.26 KiB) Viewed 142775 times


shaping bottom2.jpg
shaping bottom
shaping bottom2.jpg (102.66 KiB) Viewed 142775 times
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Re: Build - Full wood UG Kipuna style board

Postby tungsten » Wed May 01, 2013 7:32 am

Hi Karst,

great to see it's going forward!

Here's a couple pics of my kipuna woodies in action - this is the kind of crap chop I have to deal with many a day. Even with my lard 90kg this board goes through the carves like being on rails.





kipuna wood1.jpg
kipuna wood1.jpg (43.44 KiB) Viewed 142623 times



kipuna wood2.jpg
kipuna wood2.jpg (50.49 KiB) Viewed 142623 times
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Re: Build - Full wood UG Kipuna style board

Postby Karst71 » Thu Jul 25, 2013 2:50 pm

Hi All,

Sorry for my late update, but nothing like an upcoming holiday to finish my work on my version of Tungsten's great post on the Kipuna style woody surfboard. Below the final result of my efforts :D . I made a couple of mistakes, but nothing serious, I think :oops: .
Attachments
topview deckpad.jpg
Topview with deckpad
topview deckpad.jpg (80.32 KiB) Viewed 127065 times
onderaanzicht met vinnen.jpg
bottom view with fins
onderaanzicht met vinnen.jpg (80.6 KiB) Viewed 127065 times
vinnen onder.jpg
vinnen onder.jpg (73.36 KiB) Viewed 127065 times
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Re: Build - Full wood UG Kipuna style board

Postby tungsten » Mon Jul 29, 2013 9:17 am

Hi Karst, that's a real beauty. Good idea mixing in the reddish wood, comes out very nicely. You guys are incredible! Let me know how it rides after a couple sessions when you're used to it. Push it hard!

cheers, tungsten
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